At Paikaji Deigo Bettei in Onna, order the charcoal-grilled agū pork and a plate of goya champuru to share. The first lets the grill do most of the work. The second brings bitter melon to the table in a form familiar from Okinawan home cooking. The kitchen also grills fish and seasonal vegetables, so a group can order around what people want to eat. The operator schedules three live Okinawan folk performances each evening. A dinner timed for one set gives you room to hear the sanshin without building the whole night around a show.
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