Patatas Bravas

Few tapas divide Spain geographically as distinctly as patatas bravas. Madrid’s canonical version insists on a pure, spiced tomato sauce, strictly without aioli, accompanying floury potatoes that are fried twice for an intensely crisp exterior and a tender interior. Barcelona, however, particularly the renowned Bar Tomás in the Sarrià neighborhood, serves its potatoes with both a garlicky aioli and a separate hot sauce, applied individually to each piece. Neither city is willing to concede the argument. The potatoes should be thick-cut, expertly fried rather than baked, and notably crispy; the sauce should coat the potatoes generously without flooding the plate. Price-wise, expect to pay €4–8 almost universally across Spain. This is often the dish a bar uses as its opening audition for your loyalty; a weak bravas sauce is a perfectly valid reason to move on to the next stop.