A guerrilla-produced Guerrero mezcal made from wild-harvested papalometl agave in copper alembic stills by a single family in Chilpancingo, Putaparió has become the most sought-after small-production mezcal in Mexico City's mezcalerías for its combination of aggressive smoke, mineral complexity, and genuine wildness of character. The name itself — an unrepeatable Spanish compound expletive — signals its rejection of the premium mezcal category's increasingly corporate sensibility.

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