The day and night markets of Kuala Terengganu's Pasar Payang are the finest expression of east coast Malay food culture — nasi dagang cooked in bamboo, keropok lekor fish crackers deep-fried to order, nasi kerabu with rainbow-blue rice, and freshly grilled ikan keli catfish that represent flavours virtually impossible to find in Peninsula Malaysia's west coast cities.
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