Tiny bowls of rice noodles in dark, rich pork or beef broth thickened with blood and seasoned with fish sauce, sugar, white pepper, and fried garlic -- traditionally served from boats on Bangkok's klongs (canals) -- are eaten in rapid succession (6-10 bowls per sitting) at the floating restaurants of Ayutthaya and Bangkok's Ratchadaphisek Boat Noodle Lane. The recipe has been largely unchanged since the canal-boat vendors of the 1940s and is Thailand's most intense and least-known dish to international visitors.

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