Naples's midnight pasta -- spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, parsley, and peperoncino -- is the definitive late-night dish of southern Italy, made from pantry staples in 20 minutes after theatre, cinema, or a night out. Its 4-ingredient simplicity is deceptive: the garlic must be sliced, not crushed, sauteed to specific doneness in the best available olive oil, and emulsified with pasta water to achieve a sauce that coats rather than sits in a pool -- a technique that requires practice to master.

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