Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa

Puglia's signature pasta -- ear-shaped orecchiette hand-rolled with thumb pressure on a wooden board, served with turnip greens (cime di rapa) sauteed with garlic, anchovies, and chili -- is made by the women of Bari's old town, who still hand-roll and sell it from tables outside their homes in the Arco Basso neighborhood. The combination of bitter greens and anchovy umami represents the cucina povera tradition of southern Italy at its most elegant and is almost impossible to find authentically prepared outside Puglia.