KL's Mamak Stall Culture

The 24-hour Indian-Muslim mamak stall is KL's great democratic institution — a fluorescent-lit, open-sided canteen serving roti canai, mee goreng, teh tarik, and maggi goreng to a clientele that ranges from construction workers at dawn to office workers at 3am. Watching a mamak master pull a stream of tea between two cups to create the frothy teh tarik is a performance of genuine skill and pride.