The two Perhentian islands — Besar (big) and Kecil (small) — sit in water of an improbable turquoise clarity in the South China Sea, their beaches shaded by leaning coconut palms and their reefs accessible by snorkel from the shore. Accommodation ranges from simple longhouses to comfortable dive resorts, and the islands' car-free, generator-powered evenings retain a magical simplicity.

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